Interview with Luca Maffei

Fragrance is becoming increasingly trendy and plays a more significant role in our lives. Once again, Italy takes the lead, being a land of vibrant creativity and, in recent years, home to innovative personal and ambient fragrance brands.

But what does it mean to be a “nose”? How does one enter this profession? We met with Luca Maffei, one of Italy’s youngest and most talented perfumers.

Luca developed an incredible sensitivity from an early age, growing up surrounded by fragrances in a family involved in the industry. After training with François Marin, a perfumer and former director of the perfume school in Grasse (Roure – Givaudan), Luca enthusiastically and passionately entered the world of perfumery. He has already created numerous successful fragrances for brands like Acca Kappa, Carthusia, Ferragamo, Jul et Mad Paris, Onyrico, Houbigant, and Cigno Nero Milano.

Interview Questions

1. Luca, is a “nose” born or made?
Luca Maffei: Both. I was lucky to be born into a family that has always worked in this field, so it was easy for me to be fascinated by this world and deeply attracted to scents. Since childhood, I knew I wanted to be part of perfumery, and over time, the profession of a “nose” chose me.

2. What do you think about the importance of “Made in Italy” in niche perfumery?
Luca Maffei: I believe that the concept of “Made in Italy” in perfumery is crucial from an artistic perspective. We have a unique way of seeing the world and interpreting beauty. Our country and culture are an endless source of ideas and inspiration, which I personally try to incorporate into every creation. The “Made in Italy” style in perfumery becomes a distinctive olfactory signature.

3. Do you think there are trends in niche perfumery?
Luca Maffei: Yes, trends often emerge from niche perfumery before extending to the commercial market. They mainly revolve around raw materials, such as oud, ambroxan, or molecules with strong fruity notes. I believe future trends will focus on natural raw materials extracted with new techniques to enhance their olfactory properties.

4. What inspires you?
Luca Maffei: Everything around me that stimulates my instincts—visiting an art exhibition, watching a film, dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant. I am an aesthete, and “beauty” is my greatest inspiration. The world is an endless source of inspiration; you just need to learn to pay attention to scents.

5. What are the key elements of a good product?
Luca Maffei: Harmony, creativity, and passion.

6. What do you think people expect from an Italian product?
Luca Maffei: Style, luxury, and creativity. These are the key elements that define “Made in Italy” in perfumery, fashion, and lifestyle. Those who choose a “Made in Italy” fragrance have a strong desire for the emotions that make us unique.

7. Are there raw materials you prefer over others?
Luca Maffei: Yes, of course. I love floral and woody notes—especially rose and sandalwood. I enjoy playing with these in combination with spices or molecules like cashmeran.

8. Fruity, floral, spicy fragrances… in which olfactory direction are you heading?
Luca Maffei: I appreciate harmony and simplicity; I don’t like overpowering fragrances. That’s why I love floral notes for their naturalness and the emotions they evoke, as well as woods for their warmth and creaminess. I also like to introduce contrasts to give depth to the notes.

9. Do you have a “dream scent” you’d like to create?
Luca Maffei: There are several scents in nature that fascinate me and could be bottled, such as the smell of asphalt, the scent of rain, or the fragrance of a new car.

10. Can you share your vision for the future of perfumery?
Luca Maffei: My vision for the future is a perfumery that focuses heavily on communication—one that can express a vision of the world through scents, moving away from provocations and excesses. I imagine a direct, emotional perfumery that speaks to consumers through the quality of raw materials and the artistic composition of fragrances.